Chupacabras

Chupacabras stands on the hillside at Kedewatan, looking over the Sayan Valley. A bar at the top catches the sunset, and a spiral staircase leads down to an open-air dining room built around a fire pit and an open kitchen.

Chef Mauro Santarelli cooks in the Argentine way, over a two-metre wood-fire grill. Steaks are priced per 100g and use Spanish names: ojo de bife (rib eye) in Westholme F1 or Forage full-blood Wagyu, lomo bajo (striploin), lomo (tenderloin) and vacío (flank). Japanese A5 rib eye sits at the top of the list. Start with the Wagyu beef empanadas made to the grandmother's recipe, and ask the team to match a bottle from the cellar.

It is one of Ubud's best-known special-occasion dinners; arrive before sunset for a drink upstairs. A 300g steak quickly moves into upscale prices. Book through Chope.