LAVA Fire Grill

LAVA Fire Grill occupies a moody, red-lit space on Thonglor Soi 10, run by a group of French and Belgian restaurateurs. Its calling card is the Japanese-inspired kokoyaki technique, in which meat is grilled and smoked over dried coconut shell. The look is bold, with an open kitchen and a glowing wine cellar, and the room gets loud as the evening goes on.

Beef is the draw: wagyu and Black Angus come off the coconut-shell fire, and the large wagyu tomahawk for sharing is the photographed dish. A wagyu striploin served Rossini-style is flambéed at the table. Starters skew Asian-European, from beef carpaccio to truffle liver toast and seafood crudo, and the 'Feed Me' tasting menu is a good way to try several cuts. The wine list leans towards natural and biodynamic bottles.

It works best for groups and celebratory nights rather than a quiet steak. Lunch is served daily and dinner runs later on Fridays to Sundays. Book through the website; corkage is allowed.